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Leviton 109-390-1WH Fluorescent Lampholder, White Leviton 109-390-1WH Fluorescent Lampholder, White Features: Medium bi-pin, screw terminal Easy to wire Lamp locks in place For use with 14 to 20 watt fluorescent Furnished with mounting screw and nut 600 volts 660 watt White Body 1" wide, 1-7/16" at base x 2-7/16" overall height
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Does you starter make a *click* sound when you try to start your vehicle?
Each time you turn the ignition switch to start, does the starter just *click* one time?
That is probably the starter solenoid.
If it goes, *click-click-click-click*, and so on, it may just be a low battery.
A low battery that makes the starter *click* a few times doesn't have enough *juice* in it to turn the starter over to turn the flywheel over to turn the crankshaft over to make the engine start...phew!
A simple way to tell if the battery is at fault is to turn the headlights on and turn the ignition switch to start.
If the lights go out, then the battery is probably at fault.
Course, you'll have to run real fast after you hit the start position in order to see if the lights go out...or have someone out there watching for you.:-)
You can purchase a small inexpensive battery charger at most malls, or parts store.
The best way to use a *trickle* chargers is to charge the batter all night, or all day, whichever pleases you.
You can try charging the battery. If it runs down again, then you need to do something.
Remove the battery terminals from the battery post, if you have the *post* type, and clean the post and the inside of the cable clamp.
If you have the side mount just loosen the 8mm bolt and clean the terminal where it comes into contact with the battery. Clean the part on the battery, too. :-)
Sometimes the battery will build up a lot of corrosion on the outside of the cable clamp.
When this happens, usually, the inside part of the clamp and post will create a hard metallic-like surface.
This stops the flow of electricity from the alternator to the battery.
When you use the battery's reserve, it's gone, no more being put in.
If the vehicle does crank, it will run off the alternator, which ain't good. :-(
If cleaning the post and recharging the battery doesn't solve the problem, you may need a new one.
Don't run to the nearest *convenience store* and buy a battery.
Take your battery to a place that sells batteries and have it checked.
If it is gone to where old dead batteries go, then you will have to purchase a new one.
You may have other problems...like the alternator; the tension on the alternator belt... several things could make the battery be low...did you leave the parking lights on when you parked, to go shopping? :-)
A domestic electrical fuseboard needs to be changed when it is old or faulty. Changing a domestic electrical fuse board is a job that requires a suitably remarkable electrician. The aim of this narrative is to supply non-electricians an insight into what this process involves.
Firstly the power in the house needs to be checked to settle if it is working (i.e. Live), if it is live, then the power going to the main fuse needs to be isolated. The main fuse then needs to be removed.
Next the the power in the house needs to be checked to ensure it is dead (not live). Then cover of the fuseboard is removed and each terminal/cable (please note each cable will have a live, neutral, and Cpc) is disconnected, ensuring they are labeled so that they can be re-connected once the fusebaord is replaced. Then the old fuse board is unscrewed so that it can be removed from the the wall. The new fuse board is then fixed/screwed in where the old fuseboard was previously attached to the wall.
The terminals/cables are then reconnected back into the new fuse board. When reconnecting the fuse board, each cable is linked in its corresponding number, i.e the first cable, live is linked into the live terminal, the neutral and Cpc are linked into the first corresponding neutral terminal and Cpc bar. This is then repeated for each cable.
Once all the cables have been reconnected then the cover of fuse board is replaced. The main fuse is then put back in and the power turned back on.
There are a range of hand and power tools required to complete this process, many of which can be obtained from any important high street Diy stores.
The main qoute that could occur whilst changing a domestic electrical fuseboard is that the cable can be too short and therefore will need to be extended.
For a remarkable electrician changing a fuseboard rates as about a 6 out of 10 in terms of strangeness and should take almost 3 to 4 hours to complete.
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| Price : $0.00 | Post Date : Jan 04, 2012 18:16:39Set includes: 10-12ga: ring terminals 55-5 4pc, 55-8 4pc, 55-10 4pc, male connect 5pc, female disconnect 5pc, butt connector 12pc. 16-14ga: ring terminals 2-6 10pc, 2-5L 10pc, 2-4L 10pc, bullet male connect & female disconnect 10pc each, spade terminal 2-4M 10pc. 18-14ga: butt connector 18pc, quick splice 4pc. 22-18ga: ring terminal 1.25-4 8pc, quick splice 4pc, butt connector 12pc. Includes handy re-sealable organized-by-size see-through case.****
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